14k vs 18k Gold: What Is the Difference? A Guide for Jewellers

Anyone buying a diamond ring or earrings is almost always asked the same question: 14k or 18k gold? Customers hear that 18 carat is "better", but do not know exactly why, or whether the difference is worth the extra cost. For you as a jeweller, it is a question you answer every day.

In this article we set out the difference between 14 and 18 carat gold clearly: the gold content, the 585 and 750 hallmarks, colour, durability, sensitive skin and price. With a comparison table and practical tips to guide your customer quickly to the right choice.

1. What does carat mean for gold?

For gold, carat (often spelled karat) is a measure of purity, not weight. That is a common source of confusion, because for diamonds the carat is a unit of weight. You can read more about that in our article on the 4 Cs of a diamond.

Pure gold is 24 carat. The number indicates how many of the 24 parts are gold:

• 14 carat: 14 of the 24 parts are gold, about 58.5 percent. That is why 14k gold carries the hallmark 585.
• 18 carat: 18 of the 24 parts are gold, so 75 percent. That is why 18k gold carries the hallmark 750.

The rest consists of other metals, such as silver, copper, zinc or palladium. This alloy makes the gold sturdier and helps determine its colour. Pure gold is simply too soft for jewellery worn every day, especially rings with a set stone.

2. The difference between 14k and 18k gold

Colour

Because 18k gold contains more gold, 18 carat yellow gold has a warmer, deeper yellow tone. 14k yellow gold is slightly lighter and a little less pronounced. In rose gold, the share of copper mainly determines the pink tone. In white gold the difference in colour is smaller, because white gold usually receives a rhodium layer that determines its colour (see section 4).

Durability and wear

More alloy metal generally makes gold harder. As a result, 14k gold is usually slightly more resistant to scratches and dents than 18k gold. That makes 14k a practical choice for jewellery that has to endure a lot, such as wedding bands and rings worn every day. The exact hardness does depend on the alloy used, so the difference is not a fixed rule.

Weight and price

18k gold contains more gold and is also slightly heavier than 14k. An identical design therefore weighs more in 18k and contains more gold. That makes a piece in 18k more expensive than the same model in 14k. Because the gold price fluctuates daily, that price difference changes with it. How the price of a piece of jewellery is built up further can be read in how much a lab-grown diamond costs.

Sensitive skin

Some customers react to certain metals in the alloy, especially nickel. Because 18k gold contains less alloy metal, customers with sensitive skin often choose 18k. When in doubt, always ask about the composition of the alloy, because it differs from supplier to supplier.

3. 14k and 18k gold compared

4. White gold: 14k and 18k with rhodium

White gold is yellow gold alloyed with white metals. Even then, a slight warm undertone remains. That is why white gold jewellery usually receives a thin layer of rhodium, a platinum group metal that gives the piece a bright white lustre.

This rhodium layer wears over time, especially on rings. The warmer undertone of the white gold then shows through a little. A jeweller can have the piece rhodium plated again. That applies to both 14k and 18k white gold, and it is a good reason to see the customer back in the store.

As for nickel: in the European Union, legal limits apply to the amount of nickel that jewellery in prolonged contact with the skin may release. Ask your supplier which alloy is used for white gold, so that you can inform customers with a nickel sensitivity correctly.

5. Which gold suits a lab-grown diamond?

A lab-grown diamond is chemically and physically a diamond, not an imitation. It is as hard as a mined diamond and therefore suits 14k and 18k gold equally well. The choice of gold is about the wearer, not the stone.

• Engagement ring: 18k is popular for its luxurious look and warm colour. 14k is a strong choice when the customer wants to shift more of the budget to the diamond. You will find more tips in our guide to lab-grown engagement rings.
• Wedding bands and eternity rings: these are worn every day and against other rings. 14k is practical here, but 18k remains a lovely choice for those who want a warmer tone. Also see our range of wholesale lab-grown wedding rings.
• Earrings and pendants: these endure less, so colour and budget matter most here.
• Colour of the diamond: in yellow or rose gold, a slight tint in the diamond is less noticeable than in white gold. That gives room in the choice of colour grade.

6. How to guide the customer in store

1. Ask about daily use. Does the customer work a lot with their hands, or will the ring only be worn on special occasions?
2. Show both side by side. Customers see the colour difference in yellow gold immediately. In white gold the difference is barely visible, and then price carries more weight.
3. Ask about sensitive skin. A short question prevents disappointment afterwards.
4. Explain the budget honestly. What the customer saves on 14k can go towards a larger or finer stone. Also be honest that a lab-grown diamond has a low resale value and is not an investment. The gold itself does retain a material value, but the piece is first and foremost something to wear.

Frequently asked questions

Which is better, 14k or 18k gold?

Neither is better in general. 18k contains more gold, has a warmer colour and is more expensive. 14k is usually slightly sturdier and more affordable. The best choice depends on use, colour preference and budget.

What do 585 and 750 mean on gold?

The hallmark indicates the gold content in thousandths. 585 stands for 14 carat, about 58.5 percent gold. 750 stands for 18 carat, 75 percent gold.

Does 14k gold tarnish?

Yellow and rose gold in 14k keep their colour, although they can become dull from dirt and skincare products. With white gold, the rhodium layer can wear over time, revealing a warmer undertone. Rhodium plating it again solves this.

Lab-grown jewellery in 14k and 18k gold

Noam Jewels supplies lab-grown jewellery to jewellers from the Antwerp diamond district: more than 1,500 designs in 14k and 18k gold, delivery in 2 to 3 weeks, no minimum order and white label, under your own name. On the B2B platform you see your prices and order 24/7. Create your B2B account or book a call.